SIMPLE REQUEENING METHOD
An excellent IPM practice to help your bees survive!
It is recommended, as an integral part of Integrated Pest Management, to
replace queens regularly, in order to have younger queens in your colony for
the winter. This greatly helps bees to
survive even though they may have to contend with mites and /or diseases, such
as AFB (American Foulbrood), EFB (European Foulbrood), SACBROOD, CHALKBROOD,
HTM (Honeybee Tracheal Mite) & NOSEMA (Apis & Cerana).
Applying treatments, medications, and pesticides is sometimes not
sufficient to keep your bees alive. One
explanation could be the queen in the colony is older and her level of pheromones
has diminished; or it may also be the queen is genetically inferior – not bred
for disease resistance. Introducing
superior stock may help solve this problem.
Many beekeepers are hesitant to requeen their colonies. They feel the risk of ending up with a
queenless colony is not worth the effort.
Moreover they do not feel confident to find the queen. The approach
described below makes it somewhat easier, and almost full proof. I have divided the explanations in different
sections to simplify.
Click on the link that corresponds to your situation:
MATED QUEEN – DOUBLE BROOD CHAMBER
MATED QUEEN – SINGLE BROOD CHAMBER
QUEEN CELL - DOUBLE BROOD CHAMBER
QUEEN CELL - SINGLE BROOD CHAMBER
MATED
QUEEN – DOUBLE BROOD CHAMBER
- Insert queen excluder between 2 brood
chambers 5-7 days prior.
- Wait 5-7 days.
- Remove honey supers and stack on
upturned hive cover near the original colony.
- Set top queen excluder on top of honey
supers.
- Separate top brood chamber and set on
top of honey supers and excluder.
- Remove the lower queen excluder and
cover the lower brood chamber temporarily.
- Inspect the top chamber first to find
the queen and remove her.
- Carefully remove the 1st
frame, using minimum smoke not to agitate the bees. Look for the queen on both sides of
the frame. Set aside.
- Proceed to inspect other frames, one
at a time, and set aside in the same order.
- As you are looking over each frame,
look for the presence of eggs to confirm the queen is in this box. If eggs are present, the queen should
be there.
- Once you remove her, you can go ahead
and scrape frames in both chambers & rearrange if need be.
- If no eggs are present, she is in the
lower brood chamber.
- Repeat procedures to find the queen and
remove her.
- If no eggs are present in either box,
you may have a virgin or a queenless colony.
- If queen cells are present but capped,
the colony may be queenless and are trying to raise a new queen; or the
colony may have swarmed with the old queen. Remove all natural queen
cells.
- If queen cells are opened, you may
have multiple virgins. Close the
colony and wait until the natural queen is mated to requeen. About 2-3
weeks.
- If no queen cells are present, you
probably have a queenless colony. If there are enough brood left you can
try to requeen. If no or little brood is left, introduce a frame of
emerged brood from another colony or unite. It is probably a good idea to reduce the brood chamber to a
single.
- Put back the top brood chamber above
the lower one without the lower excluder.
- Introduce the caged queen immediately.
- Position
the cage between 2 frames of brood.
- The bees
must be able to access the screen of the cage to feed the queen and
exchange pheromones.
- The cage
may be held between 2 top bars, or else pressed in the upper comb section
of the brood frame.
- Put a pollen patty if necessary.
- Place the queen excluder above the
requeened colony.
- Put back all honey supers.
- Close the colony.
- Come back 8-10 days later to inspect
the colony.
- Open the colony to inspect the brood
chambers again.
- Look for the presence of eggs or young
larvaes, and for natural queen cells.
- If eggs, the new queen is laying. The
colony is successfully requeened.
- If natural queen cells are also present
and partially tore down, they must be destroyed. Usually, the bees have
already begun to remove the occupants.
- If no eggs are present, and queen
cells are present and intact, the queen may be dead. Remove the queen
cells and reintroduce another queen or unite.
- If neither eggs nor queen cells are
present, you probably have a virgin (she may have been there previously). You have a choice to leave the virgin
until she mates or hunt her down.
- If you find the virgin and remove her,
requeen immediately.
MATED
QUEEN – SINGLE BROOD CHAMBER
- Remove honey supers and stack on
upturned hive cover near the original colony.
- Remove queen excluder.
- Inspect the brood chamber to find the
queen and remove her.
- Carefully remove the 1st
frame, using minimum smoke not to agitate the bees. Look for the queen on both sides of
the frame. Set aside.
- Proceed to inspect other frames, one
at a time, and set aside in the same order.
- As you are looking over each frame,
look at the brood pattern for the presence of eggs and young
larvaes. The queen is usually
near this area. If eggs are
present, the queen should be there.
- Once you remove her, you can go ahead
and scrape frames in both chambers & rearrange if need be.
- If no eggs are present, you may have a
virgin or a queenless colony.
- If queen cells are present but capped,
the colony may be queenless and are trying to raise a new queen; or the
colony may have swarmed with the old queen. Remove all natural queen
cells.
- If queen cells are opened, you may
have multiple virgins. Close the
colony and wait until the natural queen is mated to requeen. About 2-3
weeks.
- If no queen cells are present, you
probably have a queenless colony. If there are enough brood left you can
try to requeen. If no or little brood is left, introduce a frame of
emerged brood from another colony or unite.
- Introduce the caged queen immediately.
- Position
the cage between 2 frames of brood.
- The bees
must be able to access the screen of the cage to feed the queen and
exchange pheromones.
- The cage
may be held between 2 top bars, or else pressed in the upper comb section
of the brood frame.
- Put a pollen patty if necessary.
- Place the queen excluder above the
requeened colony.
- Put back all honey supers.
- Close the colony.
- Come back 8-10 days later to inspect
the colony.
- Open the colony to inspect brood
chambers again.
- Look for the presence of eggs or young
larvaes, and for natural queen cells.
a.
If eggs, the
new queen is laying. The colony is successfully requeened.
b.
If natural
queen cells are also present and partially tore down, they must be destroyed.
Usually, the bees have already begun to remove the occupants.
c.
If no eggs are
present, and queen cells are present and intact, the queen may be dead. Remove
the queen cells and reintroduce another queen or unite.
d.
If neither
eggs nor queen cells are present, you probably have a virgin (she may have been
there previously). You have a choice to
leave the virgin until she mates or hunt her down.
e.
If you find
the virgin and remove her, requeen immediately.
QUEEN
CELL - DOUBLE BROOD CHAMBER
- Insert queen excluder between 2 brood
chambers 5-7 days prior.
- Wait 5-7 days.
- Remove honey supers and stack on
upturned hive cover near the original colony.
- Set top queen excluder on top of honey
supers.
- Separate top brood chamber and set on
top of honey supers and excluder.
- Remove the lower queen excluder and
cover the lower brood chamber temporarily.
- Inspect the top chamber first to find
the queen and remove her.
- Carefully remove the 1st
frame, using minimum smoke not to agitate the bees. Look for the queen on both sides of
the frame. Set aside.
- Proceed to inspect other frames, one
at a time, and set aside in the same order.
- As you are looking over each frame,
look for the presence of eggs to confirm the queen is in this box. If eggs are present, the queen should
be there.
- Once you remove her, you can go ahead
and scrape frames in both chambers & rearrange if need be.
- If no eggs are present, she is in the
lower brood chamber.
- Repeat procedures to find the queen and
remove her.
- If no eggs are present in either box,
you may have a virgin or a queenless colony.
a.
If queen cells
are present but capped, the colony may be queenless and are trying to raise a
new queen; or the colony may have swarmed with the old queen. Remove all natural
queen cells.
b.
If queen cells
are opened, you may have multiple virgins.
Close the colony and wait about 2-3 weeks until the natural queen is
mated.
c.
If no queen
cells are present, you probably have a queenless colony. If there are enough brood
left you can try to requeen. If no or little brood is left, introduce a frame
of emerged brood from another colony or unite. It is probably a good idea to reduce the brood chamber to a
single.
- Replace the upper brood chamber back
on.
- Put the upper excluder back on.
- Put the supers back on.
- Close the colony.
- The queenless bees will now raise
natural queen cells.
- Come back 8-10 days later. The cells are now capped. All brood is now capped.
- Open the colony and separate the 2
brood chambers.
- Proceed to remove natural queen cells
in both brood chambers.
- Remove
the frame #1 located on the side of the brood chamber.
- Shake or
brush the bees off the frame into the brood chamber.
- Inspect
the comb section carefully on both sides for natural queen cells,
checking corners and crevices.
- Cut out
or destroy any partially or capped natural queen cells with your hive
tool.
- Set it
aside.
- Remove
frame #2 and repeat the operation.
- Replace
frame #2 in the brood chamber immediately at the place where frame #1 was
positioned.
- Repeat
for each remaining frame, taking care to replace them in the brood
chamber in the same order and position.
- Last,
shove the frames over to make room for the first frame.
- Replace
it in the first position.
- Introduce
the queen cell between 2 brood frames in the middle of the top box,
hanging from top bars.
- Close the
colony and do not disturb for a minimum of 17 days, up to 21 maximum.
- Open the colony to inspect brood
chambers again.
- Look for the presence of eggs or young
larvaes.
a.
If eggs are
present, the new queen is laying. The colony is successfully requeened.
b.
If eggs are
present, and you find an emerged natural queen cell; you may have a natural
mated queen, instead of your introduced queen. You may have missed to remove a
natural queen cell before.
c.
You have a
choice to leave the natural queen or hunt her down.
d.
If you find
the natural queen and remove her, requeen immediately, preferably with a mated
queen.
e.
If no eggs or
queen cells are present, the colony is queenless. You can add brood & requeen
immediately with a mated queen or unite.
QUEEN CELL - SINGLE BROOD CHAMBER
- Remove honey supers and stack on
upturned hive cover near the original colony.
- Remove queen excluder.
- Inspect the brood chamber to find the
queen and remove her.
- Carefully remove the 1st
frame, using minimum smoke not to agitate the bees. Look for the queen on both sides of
the frame. Set aside.
- Proceed to inspect other frames, one
at a time, and set aside in the same order.
- As you are looking over each frame,
look for the presence of eggs to confirm the queen is in this box. If eggs are present, the queen should
be there.
- Once you remove her, you can go ahead
and scrape frames in both chambers & rearrange if need be.
- If no eggs are present in either box,
you may have a virgin or a queenless colony.
a.
If queen cells
are present but capped, the colony may be queenless and are trying to raise a
new queen; or the colony may have swarmed with the old queen. Remove all natural
queen cells.
b.
If queen cells
are opened, you may have multiple virgins.
Close the colony and wait until the natural queen is mated to requeen.
About 2-3 weeks.
c.
If no queen
cells are present, you probably have a queenless colony. If there are some
brood left, go ahead and introduce a queen cell. If no brood left, introduce a
frame of emerged brood and introduce a queen cell.
d.
Put the
excluder back on.
- Put the supers back on.
- Close the colony.
- The queenless bees will raise natural
queen cells.
- Come back 8-10 days. The cells are now capped. All brood is now capped.
- Open the colony.
- Proceed to remove natural queen cells
in brood chamber.
- Remove
the frame #1 located on the side of the brood chamber.
- Shake or
brush the bees off the frame into the brood chamber.
- Inspect
the comb section carefully on both sides for natural queen cells,
checking corners and crevices.
- Cut out
or destroy any partially or capped natural queen cells with your hive
tool.
- Set it
aside.
- Remove
frame #2 and repeat the operation.
- Replace
frame #2 in the brood chamber immediately at the place where frame #1 was
positioned.
- Repeat
for each remaining frame, taking care to replace them in the brood
chamber in the same order and position.
- Last, shove
the frames over to make room for the first frame.
- Replace
it in the first position.
- Introduce
the queen cell between 2 brood frames in the middle of the box, hanging
from top bars.
- Close the
colony and do not disturb for a minimum of 17 days, up to 21 maximum.
- Open the colony to inspect brood
chamber again.
- Look for the presence of eggs or young
larvaes.
a.
If eggs are
present, the new queen is laying. The colony is successfully requeened.
b.
If eggs are
present, and you find an emerged natural queen cell; you may have a natural
mated queen, instead of your introduced queen.
c.
You have a
choice to leave the natural queen or hunt her down.
d.
If you find
the natural queen and remove her, requeen immediately, preferably with a mated
queen.
e.
If no eggs or
queen cells are present, the colony is queenless. You can requeen immediately
with a mated queen or unite.
Back To
Pilgrim Honey House Page
Updated on February 1, 2010