Whether you purchased queen
cells or mated queens, and whether you want to use these queens for increase,
splits, nucs or requeening full-size colony, the
principles remain the same and the goal is the same. You, the beekeeper, want to make sure the
queens are accepted successfully.
Making nucs,
splits, or requeening a full-size colony is time
consuming and we want good acceptance rate.
All kinds of ways and methods exist to help the beekeeper save some
time, but the results may sometimes be disappointing. The procedures outlined below will not aim at
saving time, but at improving queen acceptance.
We believe it is possible to reach a success rate of nearly 90%, if done
diligently. Why spend some valuable time
and money, in an attempt to improve the quality of your bees through genetic
selection, if you achieve mediocre results by taking chances?
This is especially true in
the case of the Russian bee. If we are
trying to introduce new genetics in order to control mite infestation, we want
to make sure the bees do accept the newly purchased stock.
Under the emergency impulse,
the bees sometime sting the caged queen upon emergence, and raise their own
queen instead. This often results in
poor quality queen (intercaste), which is worse than
a supersedure queen (natural requeening).
We can avoid this problem
through special management practice.
Planning ahead minimizes probability of failure. Let’s maximize our results by careful
planning and management.
With these points in mind, we
can better choose our approach to facilitate the acceptance of the new queens.
Ø In
the spring, wait until the weather is warmer, instead of trying to introduce
queens the earliest possible.
Ø Prepare
smaller unit of bees, such as 2-4-frame of bees, instead of splits, or
increases of 10 frames of bees.
Ø Move
the unit within the same apiary to lose all the older bees. Add extra bees to make sure there are enough
left in the unit.
Ø If
introducing a queen from another race (i.e. Russian), remove natural queen
cells and increase waiting period before introduction.
Ø Make
sure your bees are healthy. Follow an
IPM program.
Ø Adopt
the best introduction method to maximize the rate of acceptance.
Now, these points are just
suggestions to increase the rate of acceptance.
But with careful diligence, it is possible to achieve good results, even
if all of the conditions above are not met.
For instance, it is possible, in our experience, to achieve close to 90%
success, in an attempt to requeen large colonies, with a different strain of
bees like the Russian stock. It just takes
more time and attention to details. The
results are well worth the effort!
1.
Planning In Advance – 6 months
1.1. Make
sure the colonies you are using to make splits, nucleis,
increases or that you want to requeen are in good shape: Low varroa or HTM (Honeybee Tracheal Mites)
infestation, no American Foulbrood or European Foulbrood, and low Nosema.
1.2. Make
sure they have plenty of feed for the winter, and enough for spring build-up.
1.3. A
starving colony does not raise a lot of bees and is under stress.
1.4. A
stressed colony is more susceptible to mites and diseases.
1.5. Order
the queens from the producer or breeder well in advance.
1.6. Prepare
your equipment to make sure it is there when you need it next spring.
2.
Prepare The Units
2.1. Nucs,
splits, increases, full-size colonies must be made or rendered queenless 1 to 7
days before the arrival of the new queens or cells.
2.1.1. Large
colony or split with a mated queen: 1 day
2.1.2. Large
colony or split with a queen cell: 7 days
2.1.3. Nuc
with a mated queen: 1 day
2.1.4. Nuc
with a queen cell: 1 day
2.2. Be
sure they have everything they need:
honey, pollen, brood from all stages, empty combs or foundation, and
enough bees to cover the brood completely.
2.3. This
is a good time to scrape your frames and the brood chambers.
2.4. Replace
old combs and broken frames with new frames or foundation or combs. If the old ones contain brood, position it on
the side of the box, so you can replace them at a later time.
2.5. If
you leave these units in the same apiary, be sure to give them a few extra
shakes of young bees, and to provide open brood. This will keep the young bees busy.
2.6. Feed
them a pollen substitute available from Bee Supply Stores.
2.7. If
the unit is smaller than a regular brood chamber, reduce the entrance to
prevent robbing.
2.8. If
the unit is smaller than 4-frame nuclei, and the weather is hot, provide
shading to prevent absconding.
3.
Natural Queen Cells
3.1. The
bees may raise their own queens.
3.1.1. The
bees are acting as a reaction against your intervention as beekeeper.
3.1.2. It
is an emergency situation for them. Their
queen is suddenly missing.
3.1.3. They
will start raising queen cells with any worker larvaes available: young and older larvaes.
3.1.4. Bees
tend to raise numerous queen cells if they are numerous and have plenty of food
available. A good sign!
3.1.5. If
you used a caged mated queen, the bees may or may not built queen cells. More
often they do not.
3.2. The
bees often tend to be loyal to these natural queen cells.
3.2.1. They
sometime destroy your queen cell if they have their own queen cells available.
3.2.2. Older
larvae will develop sooner because they have a head start.
3.2.3. She
emerges first and destroys the other natural queen cells still in development.
3.3. Research
shows that a queen developed from an older larvae is
an intercaste.
3.3.1. An
intercaste queen is an inferior queen.
3.3.2. It
was not fed royal jelly long enough as a young larvae.
3.3.3. It
was supposed to become a worker.
3.3.4. It
does not have fully reproductive organs.
3.3.5. Her
laying capacity is reduced considerably.
3.3.6. She
does not perform adequately.
3.4. Removing
these natural queen cells will enhance the acceptation rate.
3.4.1. The
bees are now queenless for several days.
3.4.2. Moreover,
all their natural queen cells are now destroyed.
3.4.3. They
have no hope of raising other ones because open brood is absent.
3.4.4. They
will more readily accept the introduced queen cell.
3.4.5. The
larger the unit, the more important it is.
3.5. Natural
queen cells are an issue when requeening with queen
cells.
3.5.1. Our
experience shows that if you use mated queens instead of queen cells, you have
better results.
3.5.2. You
can safely introduce a caged mated queen 1 day after removing the old queen.
3.5.3. It
is only whenever you introduce a queen cell into a larger unit that you
need to take extra precautions.
3.6. Removing
procedure.
3.6.1. If
you are requeening a large unit with a queen cell,
follow these procedures on the day of introduction.
3.6.2. If
you have already requeened with a mated queen, follow these procedures when you
come back 7-10 days later to check the new queen.
3.6.3. Remove
the frame #1 located on the side of the brood chamber.
3.6.4. Shake
or brush the bees off the frame into the brood chamber.
3.6.5. Inspect
the comb section carefully on both sides for natural queen cells, checking
corners and crevices.
3.6.6. Cut
out or destroy any partially or capped natural queen cells with your hive tool.
3.6.7. Set
it aside.
3.6.8. Remove
frame #2 and repeat the operation.
3.6.9. Replace
frame #2 in the brood chamber immediately at the place where frame #1 was
positioned.
3.6.10. Repeat
for each remaining frame, taking care to replace them in the brood chamber in
the same order and position.
3.6.11. Last,
shove the frames over to make room for the first frame.
3.6.12. Replace
it in the first position.
3.6.13. Cover
the brood chamber with the inner cover.
3.6.14. Proceed
to the next colony.
3.6.15. In
the case of introducing queen cells: When you have finished the last colony, go
back to the first one to start introducing the new cells.
4.
Queen Cell Introduction
4.1. Be
sure to transport queen cells adequately.
4.1.1. Pick-up
early in the morning.
4.1.2. Place
them in an insulated lunch box or Styrofoam container.
4.1.3. Keep
them in a upright position at all times.
4.1.4. Do
not rattle the cells. Do not turn them
upside down.
4.1.5. Use
block of wood or Styrofoam with pre-drilled holes of ¾” diameter to hold each
cell.
4.1.6. Take
care not to disturb them with sudden moves or knocking.
4.1.7. Use
a thermometer to monitor the inside temperature at around 95°F (35°C).
4.1.8. Use
warm water bottles at the bottom of the container.
4.1.9. Keep
away from direct sunlight in hot days.
Keep the lid closed.
4.2. Position
queen cells adequately.
4.2.1. Adjacent
to a frame of brood.
4.2.2. Hanging
in between 2 top bars, if the weather is warm and the cluster of bees is
covering the top bars.
4.2.3. OR
In the middle of a frame of brood, if the weather is inclement, or if the
cluster is small. Position the cell
inside the cluster.
4.2.3.1. Remove
a brood frame.
4.2.3.2. Find
an empty spot with no brood to position the cell.
4.2.3.3. Using
your finger, flatten the cells to make room for the queen cell.
4.2.3.4. Press
the base against the top portion of the empty spot, positioning the cell
downward in the empty spot.
4.2.3.5. Be
sure not to crush it while pressing.
Press on the base only.
4.2.3.6. Carefully
replace the frame in the colony in the same position.
4.3. Close
the colony and do not disturb for a minimum of 17 days, up to 21 maximum.
4.3.1. Do
not come again in 1 or 2 days to see if the cell has emerged.
4.3.2. This
would disturb the colony and may cause rejection of the new virgin queen.
5.
Mated Queen Introduction – the following day after
removing the old queen
5.1. Transporting
queens
5.1.1. Avoid
direct sunshine and high temperatures >92°F
(33°C).
5.1.2. If
kept overnight, keep them warm 85-90°F (29°-32°C).
5.1.3. Introduce as soon as possible.
5.2. Remove
attendants from the cage
5.2.1. No
more than one hour before arriving to the apiary.
5.2.2. Proceed
inside your home, honey house or vehicle, near a sunny window.
5.2.3. Open
the cage and let the bees escape.
5.2.4. If
the queen comes out, she will fly to the window.
5.2.5. It
is the best time to mark or clip her. Right side for even years, left side for
odd years.
5.2.6. Let
the paint dry thoroughly – about 1 minute.
5.2.7. Put
her back in the cage, grabbing her wings or thorax, and gently introducing her
head first; she will follow suit.
5.2.8. Close
the cage securely.
5.2.9. Upon
arriving to the apiary, place each cage on the floorboard in the entrance of
its receiving colony,
away from the sun, until you can introduce her later.
5.2.10. This
way, the queen are readily taken care of.
5.3. Insert
the cage in the way described for queen cells.
5.3.1. Position
the cage between 2 frames of brood.
5.3.2. The
bees must be able to access the screen of the cage to feed the queen and
exchange pheromones.
5.3.3. The
cage may be held between 2 top bars, or else pressed in the upper comb section
of the brood frame.
5.3.4. Close
the colony.
5.4. Do
not disturb the colony for about 7 –10 days.
5.4.1. Do
not come again in 1 or 2 days to see if the queen has exited the cage.
5.4.2. This
would disturb the colony and may cause rejection of the new queen.
6.
Check If New Queen Is Laying
6.1. Leave
the colony undisturbed for several days.
6.1.1. The
colony is nervous until it has open brood, especially for a newly introduced
mated queen.
6.1.2. Wait
at least 8-10 days for a mated queen to start laying
and have open brood of her own.
6.1.3. Wait
at least 17-20 days for a virgin queen to emerge from her cell, to mature, to
take orientation flight, to go for several mating flights, and to start laying.
6.2. Check
for the presence of eggs or young larvaes.
6.2.1. Open
the colony and remove a centre frame to inspect.
6.2.2. Look
for eggs or young larvaes.
6.2.2.1. If
yes, look for natural queen cells and destroy them if any (in the case of caged
mated queens introduction).
6.2.2.2. It
is queenright.
The queen has been successfully introduced.
6.2.3. If
no young brood is present.
6.2.3.1. Look
for an open queen cell you may have missed.
6.2.3.2. Look
for a virgin queen.
6.2.3.3. If
you find it, either remove it or leave it be.
It is up to you.
6.2.3.4. If
you remove it, reintroduce a new caged queen as soon as possible.
6.2.3.5. It
is not too late yet. Laying workers
usually appear one week later than this.
6.2.3.6. If
you leave the natural virgin, the colony will be requeened in about 7 to10 days
or so.
6.2.4. If
no queen is present and it appears that the colony is queenless.
6.2.4.1. You
can reintroduce another queen immediately, if available. It is not too late at this point.
6.2.4.2. You
should give the colony a frame of emerging brood.
6.2.4.3. Do
not add extra bees unless it is necessary, and they must be young bees only.
6.3. After
inspection
6.3.1. Once
the queen is accepted and laying, leave the colony
alone for a while.
6.3.2. Do
not disturb for another 2-3 weeks, until it has emerging brood of her own.
6.3.3. Then,
you can add 1 frame of emerging brood every 7 days.
6.3.4. Do
not attempt to divide the colony for another 6 weeks at least.
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Updated on January 30, 2010