More beekeepers are changing their ways. Instead of trying to make up for their winter
losses in the spring or during the summer, they have opted for a progressive
approach. They make up their loss one
year in advance by making nucs and overwintering them. In this way, the beekeeper do not lose the
production commonly associated with the loss of colonies. These nucs can be used to replace the lost colonies immediately
upon spring arrival, instead of waiting for queen cells or mated queens in
June.
Some beekeepers have solved this problem by splitting
colonies early and letting the bees raise their own queens unde the emergency
impulse. These natural queens can
sometimes be an intercaste, so they do not perform adequately. Moreover, the queens still need the warm
weather to mate properly, so you still lose production.
Others purchase off-shore queens early and split
early. This works well but the negative
side is the genetics of these queens is not suited for our climate, so you may
lose those colonies the following winter, or you need to requeen with local
stock, which means extra labour.
The best approach is to have your own LOCAL mated
queens and brood overwintered, so they are already laying and ready to go in
April. All you have to do is to
transfer the nuc into regular brood chamber, feed them, and watch them go! These nucs have proven very effective and
productive. Sometimes they even surpass the big colonies in honey production!
This is because of the young queen so eager to buildup her nest, as opposed to
an older queen inside a large colony.
These nucs are not so difficult to produce.
q
You do not lose any production because of winter loss
any more.
q
You can make up those in June or July, when the
weather is reliable, and obtain good mating.
q
If made up in June, they can even produce surplus
honey in August!
q
No need to stress and split the best colonies in the
early spring when the weather may be unpredictable.
q
No reduced production because of early splitting your
best colonies.
Ø Nucboxes,
either doubles or singles, complete with inner covers and outer covers and
cleats, filled with empty combs or new frames
Ø 1 empty
regular honey super per anticipated nuc in each apiary
Ø Extra
honey frames nuc (in case you do not want to remove honey from the donor
colonies)
Ø Queen
excluders (if your colonies do not have them already)
Ø Queen
cells or mated queens
Ø Overwintering
equipment: packing boxes, western wraps,…
METHODOLOGY
v
Bring
with you the necessary equipment for each nucleus.
v
Find a
suitable donor colony.
Ø
Remove
the outer cover and set it upside down beside the colony.
Ø
Remove
the inner cover and set it aside against the colony or next to it.
Ø
Remove
all honey supers if needed and set them on top of the inverted outer cover.
Ø
Remove
the queen excluder and take a quick look for the queen, and set the excluder on top of the honey
supers.
Ø
Set
the empty super on top of the excluder.
v
Inspect
the brood chamber and look for the following 2 frames:
Ø
1
honey frame at least 50% full.
Ø
1
brood frame containing emerging or capped brood with older or young
larvaes. Eggs are not necessary.
Ø
Look
for the queen on the frames and if she is there, gently put her back in the
colony.
Ø
If you
did not see the queen, shake or brush the majority of the bees back into the
colony and quickly take a look again at the frames for the queen.
Ø
Put
the 2 frames in the middle of the empty super sitting above the queen excluder.
Ø
Replace
the 2 frames donated by 2 new combs and put all the other removed frames back
into the colony.
Ø
Set
the queen excluder and empty super containing the 2 frames on top of the
colony.
Ø
Leave
a finger space between the two frames for the bees to cluster better.
Ø
Close
with the inner cover.
Ø
Leave
the honey supers on the ground.
v
In the
mean time, proceed to the next colony for the
next nuclei and repeat this procedure until you have enough nucleis
prepared in this apiary.

v
After
about one hour or so, go back to the first colony and remove the inner cover.
Ø
You
should see bees clustered around the 2 frames you placed above the queen
excluder.
Ø
Transfer
these frames with adhering bees into your nuc box.
Ø
Honey
on the side, then brood frame, followed by empty combs or foundations.
Ø
Close
the lid and reduce entrance to 1 or 2 bees.
NOTE: If you want to leave the nucs in the same apiary, you must add
extra bees in the nuc box prior to closing the mother colony. Sometime there are bees clustering under the
inner cover or the inner walls of the empty hive body. No queens!
Ø
Close
the donor colony, putting the honey supers back on.
v
Proceed
to other prepared nucleis and repeat this procedure until all your nucboxes are
stocked with frames, bees, and empty combs.
v
Move
the nucleus to another apiary at least 3 km away.
v
About
24 hours later, perform the following checks:
Ø
Cluster
of bees should be at least 2 frames, if not, equalize with other strong
nucleis.
Ø
Introduce
the queen cell or mated queens following the method outlined in our “Queen Introduction Method”.
Ø
Close
the nucbox.
Ø
Repeat
procedures for all nucboxes in the apiary.
v
NOTE: If you waited longer than 24 hours, the bees
may have begun natural queen cells under the emergency impulse. In this case, you must do the following:
Ø
Remove
the 2 frames donated by the parent colony and shake the bees off into the
nucbox, to look for natural queen cells built by the bees.
Ø
Destroy
these natural queen cells by crushing or removing, making sure the larvae at
the bottom of the cell is dead.
Ø
Replace
the frames back into the nucbox, introduce the cell or queen, and close the
nuclei.

v
Wait
at least 18-21 days for a queen cell, and 9-11 days for a mated queen.
v
Return
to the apiary and perform the following operations.
Ø
Check
if the new queen is laying her eggs properly.
§
If
yes. The nuc is queenright.
§
If
not, it is queenless or a virgin is present.
Remove the unwanted virgin, reintroduce another emerging brood frame and
bees if needed. Reintroduce a mated queen if possible. It is not too late yet.
§
If
laying workers are present, shake all bees on the ground and close entrance.
Wait for the bees to disperse before trying again.
Ø
Check
to see if the new queen has enough room to lay her eggs. She should have 2-3 frames for brood. If yes, all is well. If not, you may have to
add extra bees or capped brood from a strong nuc. It is time to equalize the nucs.
Ø
Check
to see if the unit has enough food. It
should have the equivalent of at least 1 full frame of honey.
§
Check
also to see if brood frames contain nectar or fresh honey surrounding the brood
area.
§
If
yes, all is well. If not, feed thick sugar syrup. Otherwise the nuc will
suffer, be stressed and will not be ready for winter later on.
§
Feed
pollen substitute.

v
14
days later, perform the following operations:
Ø
Check
if the unit is still queenright.
Ø
Check if
the brood nest has progressed properly.
Ø
Check
if there is enough honey and pollen.
Ø
Keep
feeding the pollen substitute.
Ø
Check
if the cluster needs more room.
§
If
yes, transfer into a regular brood chamber and add empty combs as needed. You now have a single colony.
§
Or if
using double nuc box, add a queen excluder on top of the unit and staple it on
the dividing board to prevent the queens to travel. Add a honey super.
v
Fall
preparation. Early September.
Ø
Remove
honey supers.
Ø
We
recommend treating for nosema, using the baggie method, applied directly above
the excluder. The bees will act as one single colony. Use dosage recommended for 1 colony, if you have 2 nucs in a
regular chamber.
Ø
Feed
enough 2:1 sugar syrup in preparation for winter. Each double nuc box and single brood chamber needs about 60-70
lbs of syrup, especially if they are strong. We recommend using barrel feeding
with straw.
v
Winter
preparation. Late October.
Ø
Apply
oxalic acid treatment – trickling method - according to regulations and Protocols
Oxalic Acid Treatment - Trickling Method.
§
5ml of
solution per frames of bees, no more than 20 ml for a 4-frame nuc.
Ø
Pack
these units above single or double brood chamber colonies, using wintering
boxes with wood chips or some other valuable method. They can be overwintered on pallets in groups
Ø
These
units should do well during the winter and produce a fantastic crop next
summer.

Back to
Pilgrim Honey House Page
Updated on December 17, 2009